Plackets
In the 19th century shirts were considered undergarments and were not
designed with front openings. Plackets emerged as a way to make shirts
easier to put on and take off and this has led to a number of variations in
style and sizing. Today these design possibilities contribute to the level of
formality of the shirt.
Raised Hem, Commonly thought of as a more casual styling detail this placket is often paired with a popular Oxford cotton button down. At Hume London we personally consider the decorative stitching that is framing the buttons to be more dressy.
Width & Stitching, All plackets can come in a range of widths but raised hems also offer a range of stitching sizes. The combination of these two factors will change the overall proportions and therefore the general aesthetic of the shirt. The Hume House style is 1.1/2 with 3/8 stitching, for a slightly slimmer customer we may consider an 1.1/4 with 1/4 stitching to better balance the proportion.
Flat Hem Fly Front, The Flat hem Fly Front is a smooth clean look with the placket covered and hidden buttons. The same effect can be done with a raised hem, however the fly front on a flat hem is a more popular option today. As less people wear ties in modern dress the buttons can often be seen as messy. So to have them covered in this way creates a cleaner overall feel.
Flat Hem Fly Front, The Flat hem Fly Front is a smooth clean look with the placket covered and hidden buttons. The same effect can be done with a raised hem, however the fly front on a flat hem is a more popular option today. As less people wear ties in modern dress the buttons can often be seen as messy. So to have them covered in this way creates a cleaner overall feel.
Flat Hem, The history of this placket derives from White Tie, the most formal of all men ’ s dress. Black tie being the rebellious casual partner with its raised hem. This being said A flat hem is a cleaner overall look lending itself nicely to a more relaxed feel. This makes it a nice choice for a versatile shirt that can be worn on many occasions and always feel appropriate.